Out and about in Ottawa

It's been an active yet leisurely paced day, pretty much ideal at this point in my trip. After a good night's sleep I was somewhat refreshed for the day ahead and after breakfast Angela and I headed into the city centre. We drove past one of Angela's previous houses near the canal and parked up at the Rideau Centre. We walked along by Parliament Hill (somewhere I'm keen to take a tour of), past the Supreme Court and down by the Ottawa River to Victoria Island. We stopped at a nearby pub for something to eat and were able to sit outside but in the shade as although a little cooler than other places I've been on this trip it was still pretty warm. 

After lunch we walked back along Sparks Street then by the National War Memorial of Canada where we were luckily on time to see the changing of the guard. We took a wander around the Byward Market area but didn't venture too far in so that'll be somewhere for me to head back to another day.

We came home to have tea and so I could start working on my schedule and plans for the rest of my trip. I know roughly where I'm going now and have confirmed a stay in Hamilton with my cousin Jane. I've been browsing tourist brochures and maps this evening but need to properly decide where we'll be going to tomorrow.

Parliament Building

View along the Ottawa River

Changing of the guard, National War Memorial of Canada

 

Arrival in Ottawa

I made it to Ottawa after what felt like a very long day. I was up early, out at the supermarket spending my last couple of dollars, then on the subway to O'Hare Airport. It was an easy ride along the Blue Line to the airport and once there I got through security quickly in plenty of time before my flight. I walked around, sat and read and people watched. My flight was delayed by almost an hour as we waited for the plane to arrive then waited for security clearance to board.

The flight took 2 hours and we moved back across into Eastern Standard Timezone with us landing in Ottawa shortly after 5pm. I was through immigration quickly and there to meet me were Angela, my aunt and Kate, my cousin. We drove the short distance to Angela's apartment, caught up, had a really nice meal and then I started looking at the maps and tourist guides they'd picked up for me at the airport. Kate's son Adam came to pick her up later in the evening. It's unbelievably the first time I've seen him since he was a baby, some 26 years ago.

I'll be out and about tomorrow with Angela acting as my tour guide Downtown as I discover what Ottawa has to offer and then as the week goes by I'll get to planning the rest of my trip.

Angela's apartment building, Ottawa

With Angela

 

 

Final day in Chicago

I've been feeling rough again for much of today.  Maybe something in the water here doesn't agree with me. I started the day contacting some potential HelpX hosts in Canada and have a couple of replies already so the chances for volunteering north of the border look pretty good. I caught the subway to the city centre and took a wander through Grant Park taking time to sit and relax near the lake. From there I went to the small Museum of Contemporary Photography. I went last time I was here and the exhibitions are always changing so it was worth revisiting.

I walked to the Cultural Centre to take a look at the amazing interior and Tiffany glass dome then kept heading north to look at the Centennial Fountain in the daylight then on towards Navy Pier. It looked way too busy for me so I decided to skip it and go around and sit on the wall by Ohio Street Beach and read for a while.

When I moved on I went to the tiny City Gallery in the Historic Water Tower then over to the enormous Merchandise Mart. It is very nice inside with its art deco style but was eerily quiet with none of the stores open. I got the subway from there and rode around The Loop which is part of the elevated section of track through the centre of the city then changed lines and came back out to the hostel. The Craft Fair was again on today and looked even busier than yesterday.

I had something to eat and relaxed at the hostel for a while then went out just before 8pm to meet my friend Megan. Helen had passed on my US mobile number and it was really good to be able to catch up at a bar just a couple of subway stops from the hostel. A good way to spend my last evening in Chicago.

Tomorrow I fly to Ottawa to stay with my Aunt and I'll plan the rest of my trip from there. My flight leaves just after 1pm so a very sociable time which means there is no rush in the morning.

Clarence Buckingham Memorial Fountain

Centennial Fountain

With Megan

Lincoln Park and Twilight Riverwalk and History Tour

I'm feeling better today after a decent night's sleep. I was also helped by lower temperatures for most of the day and less humidity yet still bright sunshine. I headed out by subway this morning to Boystown in search of a store I went to last time I was here called The Alley. Unfortunately I was way too early as they didn't open until noon.

I walked down towards Lincoln Park and recognised a fair bit of the neighbourhood as I'd previously stayed close to the park. I took a look around the Conservatory checking out their vast array of plants and then went through the garden at the Alfred Caldwell Lily Pond stopping for a while before moving onward to the Lincoln Park Zoo. I didn't remember just how big it was and it seemed like I was walking around for ages looking at all sorts of different animals. It is neat that it's free to go around and you do learn a lot about the different species and their natural environments. Expect lots of photos from the zoo.

I walked further through the park then caught the subway back to Boystown to go to The Alley. They have so many great clothes, shoes and accessories which really go with my style. Alas I didn't pick anything up as space in my bag is limited with the inclusion of my baseball souvenirs. I caught the subway back towards my hostel, sat in Wicker Park for a short time watching some guys play basketball and took a look in some of the local stores. I then walked around the Renegade Craft Fair which I'd seen being set up this morning almost right outside the hostel. It was really busy and once again leads me to compare this area with East London and its craft markets.

I was back at the hostel for an hour then back into the city to meet Helen and Brian, my friends from New Jersey who'd moved out here just a month ago. I met up with them in New York at the start of my trip and it was great to see them again. We went on a Twilight Riverwalk and History tour and were joined by Brian's cousin and his wife who are also planning to move to Chicago. The tour was pretty neat. We had an architecture student taking us around and she knew lots of facts about the buildings around the river. That took us from 7pm to 9pm and ended at Centennial Fountain where we were able to see the Water Arc across the river. We then went to a pub for dinner Downtown and I've only just gotten back so will be off to bed very soon for my final full day in Chicago and in the United States.

Alfred Caldwell Lily Pond

Panoramic view of Chicago from Lincoln Park

Marina City at night

Baseball and Rain

I'm exhausted and have been all day. Despite having one of the more comfortable dorm beds of this trip and only two roommates I woke at 4.30am and just couldn't get back to sleep. I ended up going online on my phone and planning my day down to tiny details like which subway line to take between different stations. I got up just before 7am, showered and went down for breakfast. This hostel puts in a good effort with various cereals, bagels and coffee all available.

When I headed out to start my day I wasn't feeling well at all and the heat and humidity had me sweating buckets. I went to the nearby supermarket, grabbed a drink and then went to the subway and got a 3 day pass so I can ride it as much as I like during my stay. I caught the subway to Millennium Park, went to see Cloud Gate aka The Bean and Crown Fountain then walked the short distance to the visitors centre. By then I'd started to feel a bit better (at least less like I was going to throw up). I went on one of their free hour long InstaGreeter tours which gave me some information on the history of the city and some of the buildings down by the river.

I jumped back on the subway and made my way to Wrigley Field to watch Chicago Cubs play Pittsburgh Pirates in an early afternoon game. I got a ticket with a great view for a very good price and collected another free bobblehead on my way into the stadium and of course a drink in a souvenir cup. It's celebrating 100 years and is such a quaint stadium but lacking many of the modern facilities you get used to. The game itself seemed to progress very slowly. There were runs from the first innings then just after the halfway point a very dark cloud approached and just before it started to rain the players were off and the covers on. The delay only lasted 30 minutes. Unfortunately two innings later there was a sudden almighty downpour. Again the covers were on but the rain was much heavier and came down for much longer. When it stopped there was no sign of any action and quite a few of the crowd had already gone home. I stuck around because by that time in the day there was little time to really do anything else but we weren't getting any information on a restart and the delay was over an hour. At 5.45pm the umpires came out, took a walk around the outfield and called off the game at 3-3. It'll be finished tomorrow before the two sides play each other again but I won't be able to go back to see the final outcome.

I didn't want to head straight back to the hostel so when into the city centre and walked down what's known as The Magnificent Mile. It did rain a little but I marched on though it and down to Millennium Park. I recognised a fair few buildings from my previous visit and it was useful to get my bearings. I got the subway back one stop passed my hostel in order to walk around the local area a little more and after wandering last night I now am much more familiar with my surroundings. 

I popped into the supermarket to get something to cook and have eaten. I've carried out some running repairs on my shorts sewing a button back on (good thing I packed a needle and thread). I won't be going anywhere tonight as I want to rest up and hope to feel fully right by tomorrow for a proper day out being a tourist.

Cloud Gate aka The Bean, Millennium Park

Chicago Cubs vs Pittsburgh Pirates

First rain delay, Wrigley Field

Hello Chicago

I'm pretty tired after an unexpected early thunderstorm woke me up. I made the most of the morning taking my time to pack and once the rain had stopped headed to the store to buy some beers for Eric to say thanks for having me and as a birthday present (it is his birthday today). He'd headed out to work very early but we did catch up last night. Before I headed for my bus I found time to do some internet searching and found a hairdresser near my Chicago hostel. I phoned them and thankfully I was able to secure a late afternoon appointment for a colour and cut. I caught a bus to Downtown and the Megabus to Chicago at 1pm reading more of Treasure Island on the journey. The bus was only half full so I had room to spread out. We arrived in the city just after 3pm and it was a short trip on the 'L' (subway) to my hostel. It's a neat place in a very lively area.

After unpacking the essentials, having a snack and looking at some maps and very handy information provided by the hostel I walked to the hairdressers about a mile away. It is a real luxury for me to have someone else dye my hair and it was very reasonably priced. My appointment started a bit late and didn't finish until after 7pm. The hairdresser was well travelled and very chatty and did a great job. From there I walked east a few blocks then back north in the direction of my hostel in search of a place to eat. There was so much choice but I went to Big Star Taqueria which is recommended in the Lonely Planet for their tacos. The place was packed but I managed to get a seat at the bar and my order was very quickly served. I made my way slowly but surely through a couple of tacos and a mountain of tortilla chips then took a walk back towards my hostel. The area is really busy and reminiscent of Old Street/Brick Lane in London. My head was spinning a little, I think it was a buzz from the coffee I'd had at the hairdressers combined with my tired mind. I got a drink from a nearby store and sat in the hostel basement/kitchen area working out what to do tomorrow. I think I'm going to head to Wrigley Field to see the Chicago Cubs play. It's supposed to be a neat ballpark to watch a game at. That starts in the early afternoon and certainly isn't sold out so I should be able to get a ticket at the box office. It'll break up the day nicely as I can do a little exploring in the morning and some later in the afternoon/evening. I'm sure some spots will be familiar from my previous visit a few years back.

Holiday Jones Hostel, Chicago

Beaches and Football

I've spent most of today at the beach. I started out by riding the bike northeast to the Shorewood area. I had wanted to get my hair cut and coloured but the salon there could only fit me in for a cut so I left my number in case they had any cancellations but the call never came. 

From there I headed east and then south to Bradford Beach. It was so quiet with it being a work day. I sat on a rock soaking up the sun, walked from one end of the beach to the other and read a bit of Treasure Island which I'd started on the bus journey here. I went for a paddle and the water in the lake was pretty nice.

I was on the beach for a couple of hours before heading back to Shorewood to the Three Lions pub to watch the England friendly match and to have lunch. When that finished I headed to Atwater Beach, a small beach nearby that I'd spotted earlier in the day. The wind was blowing which took the edge off the heat somewhat and it actually brought a bit of a chill to the air at times. I did some more reading this time sat on the boardwalk then moved to the small park above the beach with great views. 

On the way back I rode part of the Beerline Trail which passes very close to the apartment then came back for something to eat. I think I may have just missed Eric as I got a text from him earlier saying he was headed home but he's not about now.

I feel quite sun-kissed, especially on my legs and it was good to have a day doing relatively little but still being out and about making the most of the lovely weather.

Tomorrow I move on to Chicago, my last stop in the US. When I look back I have done a hell of a lot although I've not been everywhere I wanted. I have however discovered other places like Milwaukee which weren't even on my radar when I was planning from back in the UK and I am pleased about that.

Panoramic view of Bradford Beach looking north

Bradford Beach looking south

Atwater Beach

Brewery Tour and the Historic Third Ward

I've been out and about on the bike since mid morning. I started my day by popping around the corner to grab a coffee then rode into Downtown to try and find the visitors centre for more information on things to do. I did pick up another map but that was about it.

I cycled quite a way west to the MillerCoors brewery for a free tour. Milwaukee is known for its beer and this was just one of several breweries offering tours although the others charge for theirs. The brewery is enormous and we got to see stages in both the brewing and bottling/packing stages and also inside the caves which used to be used for storage. The guides were quite informative and there were free samples at the end. I only had half of one small glass (from the six beers available to try) and that was enough for me. Thankfully they also offered soda and pretzels. They were tallying your drinks but I have no idea what the limit was. 

I worked out a route which took me down to the Hank Aaron State Trail,  rode the river loop by the Menomonee River and went past the Harley Davidson Museum. I found my way to the Public Market and took a walk around it and spent some time looking around the Historic Third Ward area. I took the River Walk in search of the famous Bronze Fonz statue eventually tracking him down. Oddly he's not on the tourist maps. I then rode over to Veterans Park to sit by the lake for a while before heading back to the apartment just before 6pm via the supermarket. 

Eric was in and it was good to have a proper conversation with him as we'd not chatted at any length since my first night in the city. I can't see that I'll do much tonight as I'm quite tired from all the riding. I'll take things at a leisurely pace tomorrow and might head to one of the beaches and sit by the lake if it's as nice as it's been today.

MillerCoors Brewery

Making beer

With the Bronze Fonz

Milwaukee by bike and Obama

I slept pretty well on the couch waking early but dozed back off to sleep for a while. Eric and his brother (who also stayed over last night) headed out for a bike ride leaving me to get ready and try to plan my day. It was raining when they got back so I played around online and searched for stuff to do in the city until it stopped and has started to dry out a bit (which doesn't take long when the temperature is so high).

I must have gone out just after 11am taking one of Eric's bikes he kindly said I could use. I had to ride on roads a fair bit but they did mainly feature specially designated cycle lanes. I rode down to Brady Street, a trendy spot then rode on into Downtown. As it was Labor Day everywhere seemed quiet with few businesses open. I did get lost a fair bit and seemed to cross the Milwaukee River several times. I was never lost enough to be worried but did start to get a bit frustrated as I had to turn back on myself and refer to my map a lot. I eventually found the Riverwalk through the Historic Third Ward which took me eastwards towards Lake Michigan.

I knew there was the Laborfest event on at Henry Maier Festival Park but it took me a while to find the entrance. It was free but you needed a ticket to get in and passed security as President Obama was due to speak so numbers were limited and no more tickets were being given out. People were coming out occasionally and passing tickets on and eventually I was lucky enough to pick one up. President Obama had already started his speech but I managed to catch about a half of it with the content clearly aimed at the Union members running the event being full of talk about jobs, benefits and wages. I managed to get a decent spot where I stood on a bench to see and it's quite something to be able to say I've seen a President speak in person.

It emptied out pretty quickly afterwards (once the motorcade had gone). I rode to Lakeshore State Park and around the area then up through Veterans Park roughly following the Oak Leaf Trail up the lake side. I rode past some of the beaches including the biggest, Bradford Beach then headed inland through the area around the University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee and to a supermarket a few blocks down to get something quick and easy for supper and some fruit to take out with me tomorrow.

I got back to the apartment just before the end of the football transfer window to see there had been very little action all day. I put my feet up, rested for a while and ate and I popped out this evening to grab a drink and a snack. Eric popped back briefly so we caught up and he's cool with me using the bike for the rest of my stay which will make getting around so easy. He's gone out again now and whilst it's quite odd to see so little of him, he's so laid back about how I use his apartment it's actually nice as it gives me plenty of space to relax uninterrupted.

President Obama, Laborfest

President Obama, Laborfest

Milwaukee from Lakeshore State Park

Indianapolis to Milwaukee

I was sat having a coffee at the hostel last night when I heard a knock on the back door. It was a well to do young lady who lived locally (but still a few blocks away). She came to ask for help undoing her dress. She said she would have asked her "gaybours" if they'd not have been away. Why she felt more comfortable to come to a hostel and ask a complete stranger rather than going to another neighbour was a source of some bemusement. Anyway I managed to get the zip undone although it was quite well stuck and she went on her way back home. It's got to be one of the most random things to happen on all my travels.

Moving onto today, I headed Downtown on a bus towards the Greyhound Station. My bus was nearly 30 minutes late leaving the city and absolutely packed which meant I couldn't stretch out my left knee, quite sore after yesterday's cycling. 30 minutes was the time I had in Chicago before my onward bus journey so I was worried the entire trip that I might miss my connection. I also had to put up with the tension of watching Arsenal away at Leicester City via text commentary on the Arsenal Player, BBC website and Twitter. The 1-1 draw didn't come across as a very good match. We hit bad traffic on the edge of Chicago but thankfully arrived into the station at 1.45pm. I headed straight for my next bus due to leave at 2pm which was then for some reason late leaving. All the passengers boarded on time but the driver had wandered off somewhere.

I had hoped that Eric, my Couchsurfing host would be able to pick me up in Milwaukee. Unfortunately he had to head out so I had to search for a bus to make my own way across town. It was actually quite easy to get to his apartment about 20 minutes north of Downtown. He left a key under the mat for me so it's a very safe neighbourhood or he's very trusting or both. The apartment is pretty damn cool. It's open plan across two levels and even had a climbing wall built in. He mentioned being an outdoors guy in his Couchsurfing profile and there are snowboards and mountain bikes around the place.

I went out for about an hour to get a snack and to figure out where exactly I am and what's around here then came back to the apartment for a bit before heading out to a nearby bar to grab something to eat. Eric text me to say he'd be back about 10pm and it was good to finally meet him along with his brother who's visiting. We went to another nearby bar for drinks and now I'm all set up upstairs with a huge couch for my bed. It's Labor Day tomorrow, a bank holiday so I'm sure there are things going on. I may just head Downtown and see what I walk into.

Eric's apartment

Inside the apartment