Trip to Levis and Preparing to move on

I've been trying to take things slowly. I was awake and up early but took breakfast at a very leisurely pace then once I'd packed walked over to a nearby park to sit for a while. It was foggy so cool out this morning.

I went back to the hostel, checked out just before 11am and left my bag in their luggage room then strolled around the city walls and eventually up just near the Citadel where I sat and read for a while. 

I meandered back to the hostel via the scenic Governors' Promenade route. There I joined a small group and one of the hostel workers for a walk down to catch the ferry across the river to Levis. The ferry trip only took about 20 minutes and once there we climbed up a very long staircase to get a great view of Quebec City. A breeze was blowing which made it feel very pleasant. The others waited in line for ice cream at a very popular cafe but I decided not to hang around and to wander back down to the ferry. They weren't going anywhere else anyway. If I'd have had more motivation I might have looked around Levis some more but my energy and drive was starting to run out.

After catching the ferry back I took a quick look around the Quartier Petit Champlain which features a couple of grand frescos and some very European looking streets and alleyways. I took an indirect route back to the hostel stopping for something to eat, to get food for my journey and to sit in the early evening sun on the city wall.

I've got a little while until I need to leave for the station although they ask that you get there a minimum of 30 minutes before departure. My shuttle bus leaves at 8.45pm and my train at 10.30pm. It's going to be a very long trip as I'm not scheduled to arrive in Moncton until 2pm although need to remember that I'm losing an hour due to a change of timezone. I only hope I have room to spread out on the train and can get plenty of sleep along the way.

Quebec City from the ferry

At Levis

Quartier Petit Champlain

 

Wandering and Football

It's been a day of wandering. Once again it's been very warm, the Indian Summer many have been talking about is truly here. I set out to try and explore parts of the city I'd not previously visited. I started by going over to the Quebec Parliament then on through the East Quartier Saint-Jean Baptiste and onto the Plains of Abraham, an 18th century battlefield turned park. Even though it's the weekend it wasn't that busy. I strolled around there for some time backtracking so I could walk back towards the hostel via a different route through the same area.  

I surveyed all the pubs close to the hostel but none had any football on. They seem to be more places to eat than just than pubs to grab a drink and were all pretty packed with lunchtime trade. Therefore I returned to the hostel just in time to find a stream allowing me to watch the North London Derby on my tablet. I did try the TV room but a lack of cable/satellite TV quickly counted out that option. The stream was much better that the other day with some buffering during the game and most frustratingly at the time of the goals. The 1-1 draw was ultimately unsatisfactory but it's better than a defeat and we once again managed a comeback. 

After the match I walked down to the railway station where I was able to collect my train ticket for tomorrow and was glad to get that sorted. I walked around the nearby market then over to the Quartier Saint-Roch. It's less touristy, had some nice murals and graffiti pieces to look at and had some neat shops to go in. I walked over to Parc Victoria then headed uphill and back towards Parliament. Some of the streets were very steep and after lots of walking my legs were really starting to tire. I went up and sat on the city wall to catch the early evening sun before it went down and things started to cool down.

I've cooked and eaten at the hostel and I may take a further short walk later as I've still got some energy left and it's a very pleasant night. I'll check out in the morning and then plan my day as I've got a lot all day here before I need to get my shuttle bus to the other railway station and then my overnight train.

Parliament Building

Martello Tower 1, Plains of Abraham

Place de la Gare

 

Walking Tour and Parc de la Chute-Montmorency

I was in a foul mood this morning. I'd been woken up several times during the night and again this morning by a new guy who came to the dorm yesterday. I let him know in no uncertain terms when I got up that I wasn't happy and he did apologise to me when he saw me at breakfast giving the excuse of drunkeness. He was certainly old enough to know better but it did take me a while to stop fuming.

The walking tour went out at 10am. As I was ready early I took a short walk beforehand and it was very foggy and cool as a result. The 2 hour tour was very good. It was given in both French and English and I surprised myself with how much of the French I understood. It did go around the areas I'd visited yesterday but went a fair way to explaining the history of Quebec City and some of the sights. We ended back at the hostel by which time the fog had cleared and bright sunshine had come in its place.

I walked through the city centre to find a bus to take me to the Parc de la Chute-Montmorency, about 10 kilometres away. I spotted a girl from the hostel on the bus, Pila from Spain and we got chatting and explored the park together. It was nice to have a companion for the afternoon. The waterfalls are the main attraction and they were worth the visit. There are viewing points, you can go over the Falls via a suspension bridge and get up close (well close enough to get a good soaking) via the long panoramic stairway that snakes down the cliffs. We walked over towards the cable car terminal but the ride looked a lot shorter that I had expected and not worthwhile given the views we'd already had. We walked back up to the park via the rocky and steep July 31st Trail and then caught the bus back to the city. We were there for at least a couple of hours but I was surprised there wasn't more at the park and that they hadn't made the Falls a bigger attraction (there wasn't even any signage to direct you to them from the bus).

When we got back to the city Pila showed me a restaurant she'd found where everything on the food menu was just C$4.95. We ate there and the food was very good and oddly the waitresses spoke primarily in English. I may go back if I fancy a good, cheap meal as there was plenty of variety on offer. From there we walked back to the hostel, uphill as we'd been down near the station. I walked on and to a good spot to overlook the Saint Lawrence River where I relaxed with some music until the sun started to go down.

I met up with Pila later back at the hostel. She was going out to take some nighttime photographs of the city and I tagged along. It was still pretty warm out and it was very busy when we first stepped onto the main streets with so many people eating out. I'm back at the hostel now quite exhausted after much activity throughout the day. I'll have a snack and put my feet up and take a look at where in town to go tomorrow bearing in mind I need to find somewhere to watch the North London Derby.

Panoramic view of Montmorency Falls

Montmorency Falls

Porte Saint-Jean at night

 

Exploring Quebec City

I was up and about early after a solid night's sleep. I had a very substantial breakfast provided by the hostel and took my time before venturing out. It was very sunny but cool this morning but soon warmed up. I could almost have worn my shorts! I started off by going to the tourist office. There I picked up a map and official tourist guide for the city. I decided to follow one of their very detailed walks.I'd seen these online and they looked a great starting point with lots of information about the different places to visit including directions. I followed the Inside The Walls route almost exactly. It did take me all over the place within a relatively small area but I got to see sites like the Chateau Frontenac hotel and Notre-Dame Basilica as well as much smaller places I probably would have walked straight passed. I stopped for an extended time up by the Citadel where I read and had something to eat. I didn't go inside any of the museums as the route plan suggested as it was too nice a day for that and the walk too long enough anyway.

I dropped back into the hostel at about 2.30pm then went back out to walk part of the city walls then down to Govenors' Promenade where I sat in the late afternoon sun listening to music and watching the activity both on the Saint Lawrence River and on the promenade. There are so many tourists here and the cafes and restaurants are all packed. It made me feel more secure being a tourist too (by that I mean keeping my map and camera out at all times). When the sun started to get lower it did begin to cool which was my cue to walk back to the hostel via the nearest supermarket. Once I've written this blog entry I'll go and cook.

I've done a fair bit today but have left plenty of parts of the city to explore. I'm booked on to tomorrow morning's tour which I hope will give me more information and historical details about what I've seen today and maybe take me further afield too.

Chateau Frontenac

Porte Kent

Notre-Dame Basilica

 

Last look around Trois-Rivieres and Arrival in Quebec City

I was feeling better this morning but still not 100%. I'd managed to get to bed before 11pm and slept through till 7.30am and I stayed in bed until after 9am, a rare occurrence on this trip. After breakfast I checked out of the hostel but was able to leave my things there for the day. I wrote some emails and didn't get out and about until 11.30am. 

I walked north to a part of the city I'd only visited briefly (as the location of the nearest supermarket to the hostel). I found the impressive Fresque de Trois-Rivieres, a mural showing some of the historical moments since the founding of the city. I then stumbled across the impressive Porte Pacifique Duplessis. From there I headed down to the waterfront and found a bench overlooking the Saint Lawrence River. It was a lovely day and even with the breeze I was warm enough to sit without my jacket on. I did some reading in the bright sunshine then made my way back to the hostel for a late lunch. I got my things together and walked the short distance down to the bus station. 

The bus to Quebec City took two hours. It was again not very busy so I could spread out. I read up a little on what there was to do at my destination and downloaded a useful looking Quebec tourism app. From the bus station I had a 15 minute walk to the hostel, most of it uphill. It's a good huge hostel and I actually struggled to find the way out after I'd checked into my room and unpacked the essentials. I'm sharing with three Australians, two of whom I've met and they seem very friendly. 

I went out for a brief walk around. I'm very well located seemingly near lots of the main sights and plenty of bars, restaurants and shops. I went and got something to eat as I wasn't up for cooking tonight. It had already gotten dark so I didn't see much on my wander but at least have an idea of where I am and what's out there on my doorstep. The hostel arranges some tourist activities with a city tour on Friday. I'll probably join that although I expect I'll see a fair bit tomorrow when I'll walk plenty and find what exactly is where.

Fresque de Trois-Rivieres

Porte Pacifique Duplessis

HI Hostel, Quebec City

 

Our Lady of the Cape Shrine, Football and Exploring

I've been feeling rough all day. My stomach wasn't good this morning and my head's not been good this afternoon. As I had the room to myself I stayed in bed later than usual. I had some breakfast even though I didn't really fancy it then had a Skype conversation with Mum and Dad. It was very good to catch up with them.

I had a short lie down and then rented a bike as planned from the hostel. I rode east across the Saint Maurice River riding mostly on cycle paths and reached Our Lady of the Cape Shrine. The site is enormous and an amazing place to visit. I went inside the Basilica and then spent a lot of time walking around. It really is hard to describe just how much there is there with The Old Shrine and various monuments to see in the grounds.

From there I cycled back into a head wind down onto the small islands which lie in the middle of the Saint Maurice River. I rode down the Ile Saint-Christophe and onto the Ile Saint-Quentin. The former island features a golf course whilst the latter has some nice looking beaches. I couldn't ride much of the latter island as there was a charge to enter the park and I wanted to get back towards the hostel, not stop for very long. It would be a great place to spend a hot summer's day. I rode along the riverside and around the city centre then to the hostel.

I lay down and tried to find a stream for the Arsenal League Cup game. It was tough to get and when I did find it the stream kept buffering so I was only able to watch short parts of the game without interruption. The result, 2-1 to Southampton was about as bad as the quality of the stream I was watching.

I went out on the bike again and headed west this time and all the way over to Parc Laviolette where I had a great view of the Laviolette Bridge. The late afternoon/early evening sun was quite bright and it was possibly the nicest part of the day. I rode back following the Saint Lawrence River although because of all the industry on the river couldn't actually ride alongside it.

I cooked and ate at the hostel although still didn't feel much like food. After I'd eaten I went to check out the illumination of La Flambeau. I'd read online that the fountain lit up and wanted to see it for myself. It was neat with lots of colour and the water dancing at different heights. 

It was really quiet earlier with barely any guests checked in for the night now it's out of season but I did see a few more arriving late this evening. However I've still got the room to myself so will take advantage and get to bed very soon and hope that the rest helps me to feel better.

The Basilica, Our Lady of the Cape Shrine

Rosary Bridge, Our Lady of the Cape Shrine

Laviolette Bridge

 

Arrival in Trois-Rivieres

I checked out my hostel in Montreal this morning and took the Orleans Express bus (the Quebec equivalent of Greyhound) to Trois-Rivieres, a 2 hour journey arriving on time at 12.30pm. I slept for a bit and read for a bit on the half empty bus. As we arrived into the city it started to rain but thankfully the hostel was 5 minutes walk from the bus station. When I arrived there were no staff around. The sign on the door indicated they closed between noon and 4pm but that contradicted what was in their booking confirmation email. There was nothing I could do but sit and wait and be glad that their front door hadn't been locked. A staff member actually arrived about 1.30pm and I was grateful not to have to wait any longer. So I checked in, have a dorm room with 8 beds entirely to myself and the small hostel was very peaceful indeed with everyone out and about.

I had some lunch then took a map and walked down to the tourist office. I got what information they had in English and decided just to walk and get to know my surroundings. The hostel is very centrally located within what I discovered is a very small Downtown area. It rained on and off as I walked up one street and down another. I came back to the hostel to use the internet and have a quick browse through the leaflets I'd picked up and went out again, initially into bright sunshine which then soon turned to cloud. I found the Cathedral of the Assumption and took a look inside, dropped by the hostel again briefly to assess the cooking facilities then went in search of a supermarket.

I walked an indirect route to the supermarket passing by the rather imposing Church of Notre Dame des Sept Allegresses (The Seven Joys of Our Lady) and then back to the hostel. I cooked and ate and it's now quite busy. I don't hear any of the other guests speaking English, well not as a first language anyway. 

I'm going to study the maps and information I've got properly and then have an early night as I'm really tired. Although Downtown is small there seem to be a number of things to see and do in more outlying areas. The hostel does bike hire, or rather lets you take a bike out for just a refundable deposit, part of their sustainable transport remit. I hope to take advantage of that to get further afield and really explore.

HI Hostel, Trois-Rivieres

La Flambeau, Place Pierre Boucher

Cathedral of the Assumption

 

Parc Jean-Drapeau, Olympic Park, Burlesque and Bingo

It's been an overcast, humid and occasionally rainy day. I was out of the hostel by 10am and on a shuttle bus over to Parc Jean-Drapeau (the subway line there being closed for repairs). The park stretches across two islands, Ile Sainte-Helene and Ile Notre-Dame. I got up close to the huge Biosphere and then went wandering. I crossed over to the second of the two islands and saw loads of cyclists bombing around the Gilles-Villeneuve Grand Prix circuit. It's a neat location and I was surprised at just how the park and circuit merge. It must be a great place to watch a race. I walked a fair way alongside the circuit and across it then I crossed back over to the first island walking the various trails. It was getting busier as the morning went on but during my time there it was very peaceful.

I got the shuttle bus back across the river and then the subway out to the Olympic Park. I walked all the way around the stadium then through the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve neighbourhood down to the Maisonneuve Market. It didn't live up to the billing given it by the Montreal guide but certainly gave me a good walk to get there and then back to the subway station. 

I got off two subway stops away from the hostel, popped into the supermarket and then came back to the hostel. It was only about 3pm but my legs were very tired as I'd walked a long way at the locations I went to. I decided to stay around the hostel and look for something to do in the evening once I had some energy back. The hostel was hosting a comedy night but I really didn't fancy that and wanted to get out and about again. I searched online and found the fantastically named Wiggle Room which was hosting the equally epically titled Miss Ginger Trailer Park Burlesque Bingo Extravaganza and Bake Sale.

I cooked and ate early and set out to explore the Plateau Mont-Royal and Mile End areas prior to finding the venue. It looked to be quite a lively part of the city with lots of nice bars, restaurants and boutiques. The rain came heavily just after dark but by then I was pretty close to the venue. It was a small upstairs bar, very well set out with a stage and plenty of seating. It was more bingo than burlesque with plenty of games before and between the three performances. The compare was very amusing, thankfully spoke in English and I actually got quite into the bingo. Sadly I didn't win anything. The performers were very good and it made for a fun night out. I found the nearest subway station and made my way back to the hostel.

Montreal is a cool place. It's probably the easiest city I've been to for getting around with an excellent subway setup and the grid system really working well thanks to good signage (no getting confused as to which way's which at intersections). The only difficulty I've found is the language barrier. Actually it's not so much that everyone speaks French and mine is poor but that there's a real mixture of French and English spoken so I never know what's appropriate and some people are more receptive than others to my basic language skills. As I move further across Quebec I'm expecting French to dominate and somewhat perversely that will be less confusing.

Biosphere, Parc Jean-Drapeau

Olympic Stadium

 

Football, Saint Joseph's Oratory and Hip Hop

It's been a long day. I was forewarned by a guy in my dorm that he'd be getting up very early but that didn't help when his alarm went off at 5am. I couldn't get back to sleep for the next hour then was awake again at 7am so decided to get up. I didn't make it down for the band last night but despite a relatively early night was still exhausted after the early wake up. I took my time over breakfast making sure to fill up then was out and about early to travel a fair way west to a pub, the Burgundy Lion to watch the football. I took the subway and got a weekend pass and it didn't take long to get the 6 or 7 stops along the line. I found the pub easily and there were a couple of guys there to watch the game. I discovered there were more Arsenal fans at the back of the pub but it was easier to see up front so I sat there. The game was good, a simple 3-0 win away to Aston Villa. By the time it had finished it was almost noon and time for my tourism to begin.

I went back on the subway and headed in the direction of Saint Joseph's Oratory of Mount Royal. I had a fair walk as I got off the subway at the further of the two nearest stops. The building is absolutely massive and the way it's perched up high makes it look quite imposing. I saw some making the climb up the many stairs on their knees, something I'd read about. The view is very good when you reach the outside of the building and after all the steps I was quite warm. It was overcast today yet hotter than yesterday. Inside the modern styling and massive dome made it well worth the visit. 

When I had climbed back down I found the nearest subway station and went in search of NDG Park. I'd read online that there was a small, free Hip Hop festival taking place, Elementakiza. I eventually made my way there and found vans being decorated with graffiti, breakdancers, a DJ playing some tunes and even some barbers cutting hair (there was to be a barbershop battle according to the website I'd read). I stayed around for a while and watched some of the b-boy competition and some of the dancers were very good and quite athletic. You had to be careful not to catch a foot to the face if you were sat on the edge of their area.

After a while I was back on the subway heading for Little Italy. There was a small festival taking place in a park there but it was pretty quiet with not a whole lot going on when I was around. I did sit for a while and avoided getting wet by sitting under a tree when there was a brief shower. From there I jumped back on the subway and into The Village which is close to the hostel. There was a supermarket right outside the station and I walked back the few, colourful blocks ready to eat almost as soon as I got in. 

I went out today at 9am and only got in at 7pm. It's Blues Night at the hostel but once again I'm not sure I'll make it to the bar. I actually just want to plug into some music, read up on the day's football and prepare for tomorrow, my last day in Montreal.

Saint Joseph's Oratory of Mount Royal

B-Boy Competition, Elementakiza

Graffiti artist at work, Elementakiza

 

Montreal tour, Mount Royal Park and Redpath Museum

I slept well, got up early for a good breakfast but felt quite lethargic. There was no rush this morning though as the tour didn't start until 10am from the hostel and by then I was more ready to get going. The tour took in the old city and down to the port, areas I'd walked yesterday. Still it was informative with lots of detail about the history of Montreal and Quebec. At 2 hours it did feel a bit long though (I think we could have moved along quicker).

We finished at Notre-Dame Basilica and from there I walked to Victoria Square and worked my way towards McGill University. I actually ended up back outside the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts which I reached yesterday although by a somewhat different route. I went up hill towards "The Mountain" reaching Mount Royal Park via a climb up many, many steps. It was sunny with a chill in the air but once I was walking I got quite warm and took my jacket off as I made my way up to the park. The views over the city from the Kondiaronk scenic lookout were wonderful and I was surprised it hadn't taken longer to get to. There were lots of trails around the park which weren't that well marked but I did manage to find the Mount Royal Cross. You can see it from across the city but with the trees in the park it was well hidden. The tour guide described it as looking like something from Las Vegas and having seen it up close I tend to agree. It was an achievement to get up close to it though.

I made my way back to the lookout and then down to McGill University to have a look around their Redpath Museum which featured various fossils, minerals, zoological specimins and items focused on World cultures. It was pretty neat and I'm sure I learnt a few things during my visit. From there I made my way back to the hostel although I certainly didn't walk the quick route. I had a coffee then went out to the supermarket and came back to cook.

They've got a band playing in the bar tonight but not until later. I'm actually quite tired so am not sure how long I'll last. I definitely covered more ground today than I at first thought and my legs are feeling it. I think I'll be venturing onto the subway over the weekend as it'll allow me to reach a wider area and there are some places I want to visit which seem a fair distance from here.

Notre-Dame Basilica

Panoramic view of Montreal from Kondiaronk scenic lookout

Mount Royal Cross